Author Topic: Greyscale technique  (Read 5480 times)

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snagy

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2015, 05:26:57 AM »
These videos are really excellent tutorials.
I understood a lot of things about this technique, that were left unclear by the previously seen PM videos.

Thank you for the link, Glen.
Best regards-
sandor

Glen

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2015, 11:52:55 AM »
Here's another Penny Meyer video of her gray scale undercoating methods. There are four videos.


http://scahms.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=19236&mode=thread&order=0


Enjoy,


Glen

snagy

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2015, 11:04:56 PM »
Thank you for the answers Gents!
Happy Sunday - go to work (on flats)!!! ;D
Best regards-
sandor

Glen

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2015, 03:43:10 PM »
...and here it is!


http://www.flattinfigures.com/penny-meyer-video-tutorial


Go to school.


And thanks Mark! Was it something I did or just a ghost in the machine?


Glen

Nicholas Ball

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2015, 02:47:35 PM »
Hi Sandor,

I don't see why grayscale should not work even on 30mm

The colours are added in very very thin washes. ( i think she does this in acrylic because it dries quicker between layers. I know Penny builds up in lots and lots of layers until she gets the colour she wants. The main thing is to keep the colour even through out. It can be done in oil using Liquin, White spirit and paint.

I Think if you go onto u tube and put in Penny Meyer  Greyscale, there are a few tutorials from one of the shows we was demonstrating at.

marko

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2015, 12:14:28 PM »
Hey Glen,


There was an extra tag in the message indicating small font - apparently it works.  I have corrected it.


mark  8)
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Glen

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2015, 11:38:03 AM »
Sure thing!


Hey admin, why is the type on my post suddenly so small an unreadable...?

snagy

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2015, 01:26:35 AM »
Hi Glen!
thank you for your answer proposing to contact PM and also for the technical advises.
Anyway it seems to me an interesting experiment that could yield lot of new experiences.
Actually I also have to check what this glazing technique means - I shall look around on the web right now!
I shall inform you about my headway.
Thank you once again! :D
Best regards-
sandor


Glen

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Re: Greyscale technique
« Reply #2 on: April 25, 2015, 12:22:52 AM »
Sandor, your best bet is to ask Penny. Send her a PM. She is listed as 'Penmeyer' in the member list. The system will send her an email with your question (if she has that feature activated?), but she will have to log on to the BFFS site to answer it with her own PM. Alternatively, ask her to post her answer on this thread; that way we can all share the love.
1. Can't really answer that other than the precision used to paint standard colors on a 30mm piece would be little different if using grays. Gray is just another color.

2. I use Liquitex Slo-Dri to increase the drying time on Reaper, Vallejo, and Andre acrylic paints here in the USA. I mostly (by far) use the Reaper paints. Normally, I use plain distilled water; basically no chemicals or minerals, to thin my acrylics. The water is put into an empty Reaper paint bottle and I can release single drops. The Reaper bottles are nearly identical to Vallejo/Andrea. On some occasions, I make a mix of water, Slo-Dri, and Fluidant in a 2:1:1 ratio to thin the paints. This is also dispensed from a Reaper bottle.

3. I believe that PM is using a glazing technique in one variation or another to apply the colors. Liquitex also has a Fluidant (flow-improver) to lessen surface tension when painting thinned colors. The surface tension is what causes the beading. A too glossy primer is also a factor. When using thinned acrylics for glazing or washes, you should unload the brush on piece of paper towel. Just briefly touch the side of the brush to the edge of the paper towel to wick out excess water.

I'm sure there are some European-based art supply companies which have similar products; W&N maybe?

Good luck with your project!

Glen
« Last Edit: April 25, 2015, 12:12:42 PM by marko »

snagy

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Greyscale technique
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2015, 11:14:13 PM »
Friends,
having seen the Penny Meyer's presentation videos made on SCAHMS event about the greyscale-painting method I am tempted to try this approach too.
However there are still some open questions on which maybe you can give the answers (I am using acrylic paints):


1. I am painting 30 mm high flats. Is it also suitable for this technique or it is too small. (Penny' example was a cavalrymanr of appr. 60 mm height).
2. is there any retarder is used to prevent the too quick curing of the used acrylic paints of diff. grey tints?
3, After the greyscaƩe phase is complete, how the color is applied? I think it should be in steps of quite thin layers, otherway the color coat simple covers the grey-tints below. According to my experiences if the acrylic paint is diluted high with water. it tends to collect in drops on the surface pf the figure, rather than to create an even coat.


So these are the open points sofar.
Thank you for giving answer about any experiences-
Best regards-
sandor