International Flat Figure Society - British Flat Figure Society
Flat Figures Painters Forum => Gallery => Topic started by: Roland on December 01, 2014, 12:51:17 PM
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My first steps in NMM. I am not really satisfied, but the first steps are mostly the most difficult. Any idea how to improve my skills?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NkWZwGOwTGE/VHyqFeWggfI/AAAAAAAABdA/BmsS1SI_JfI/s1600/Nestor_Ajax.jpg)
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It is not so bad
It only lacks contrast between light and shadow
Could you tell the basic colors you use ?
Eric
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Hi Roland,
the photo's a bit grainy on my iPad but as Eric says it's not bad.
The only thing I have picked up on is with the guy with the shield, his left leg and sword seem to have shadows on both sides! I would get rid of the one above the sword and the leg one in the middle of the shield.
Great start.
Nicholas
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Contrast - yes, I dare to use hard contrast. I should try it with the next figures. I am using Artists- Acrylics. Cadmium Yellow, Indian Yellow, Neapels Yellow; Brown Oxid, light Ocre, Brown Iron Oxid and Vyn-Dyke-Brown; Ebony Black, translucent Violett, russian green Earth, Titanium White, quinacridone red and brilliant orange; Matting Agent, Fluid Agent and Retarder. Sounds more difficult than it is.
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Hi Roland,
the photo's a bit grainy on my iPad but as Eric says it's not bad.
The only thing I have picked up on is with the guy with the shield, his left leg and sword seem to have shadows on both sides! I would get rid of the one above the sword and the leg one in the middle of the shield.
Great start.
Thanks. You are right, indeed, the sword has a double shadow. Could be done better in a second. ;) . I was fixed on the metal....The photo should be better, on my big screen it looks also grainy. Maybe the light was wrong. I´ll try to do it better.
Nicholas
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I like them not bad at all Willie.
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I have a rather simple way to paint gold with oil
A base of burnt umber; then a second coat of yellow ochre on the lighted parts, then a third coat of white + naples yellow (and sometimes a very little bit of deep cadmium yellow) on the Highlighted parts
Then smooth the paint very softly with a dry brush but not too much; remember that shadows and lighted on metal are rather contrasted
Let it dry at 80%
Then come back with highlights (as upper) and shadows (burnt umber and even VanDyck brown)
This is a way among others
After many years painting metals with oil, I came back to metallic paints
I keep painting with oils the silvered or golden fabrics
Eric