International Flat Figure Society - British Flat Figure Society
Flat Figures Painters Forum => Techniques => Topic started by: Glen on September 05, 2014, 10:41:57 PM
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Today we start an SBS using 2D and Jeorg's recently released 45mm French Legere Pinup. Ooh, la, la. It's my understanding that this (and the later releases) are a three-way collaborative effort between drawing, engraving, and casting. Maybe more people are involved as well. Anyway, y'all done good...
Overall, the detail is excellent; good proportions for the arms, legs, and torso and the face is very well done with even features and actual eyes, cheek bones, and lips. This is very different from the three 30mm pieces I've painted where facial features seem to be little more than little bumps and lines. Or, maybe I've been painting the wrong figures...
Clean-up was easy; the usual dressing the edges, removing a couple bits of flash here and there (inside the sword hilt for example) and filling some minor pitting on her upper right shoulder and chest area.
After clean-up, the piece was primed with my usual Floquil Gray Model Railroad Primer, cut with a bit of lacquer thinner and brushed on. Then I went back and finished filling the rest of the pitting that I had apparently missed the first time. I'm old y'know.
Painting is next. My plan is to start at the top and work my way down doing the basic shading and highlighting and leaving the final shading and highlighting, lining, and inevitable touch-ups for last. I plan on using the original artwork as a painting guide as far as the uniforms and equipment go. Can't say the same for hair colors and makeup (yes, it's a little known fact that Napoleonic era pinups wore makeup). I will be using Reaper Master Series Acrylic Paints: http://www.reapermini.com/Paints/corecolors
As always, questions and comments are welcomed, so feel free to jump in.
More later.
Cheers,
Glen 8)
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Glen
Very interested in the use of Acrylics so I will be following your posts.You say you are using Reaper paints.have you used Scale 75 acrylics i am told they are excellent.I want to get away from the citidal and vallego.
look forward to the progress.
Dave
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Hi Dave,
I haven't used Scale 75 paints - or Citadel and Games Workshop, for that matter. I used Humbrol, Testors Model Master, and Pactra Authenti-color enamels to paint the rare figure back in the 70s - early 90s. Probably dating myself there. I started using acrylics back in 2000-2001 when I worked in the hobby industry and the company owner gave me an Andrea introductory set and told me to learn how to use them. Lucky me... I was eventually given the entire set of 60 Andrea colors, but started supplementing them with Vallejo purchased from local shops. I went through the usual learning curve and didn't have any real issues with them until their local availability began to wane. I started using Reaper paints around 2005-6 or so and haven't looked back. The Reaper facility is close to me and the person who designs and makes the paint is a member of our figure group (no, I don't get a discount...). I really like the Reaper paints, and they are compatible with Andrea and Vallejo. Their local cost is similar.
Cheers,
Glen
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Pinholes and blemishes!!! :o now remember Glen your figures are part of the trial set's, the new figures cast by Joerg are just as good ;D
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Working on the face and skin tones now. I started with the eyes using a 1:1 mix Misty Gray and Fair Skin for the eyeball followed by a vertical stripe of Blackened Brown for the iris. The eyes were then framed with Walnut Brown to represent the upper and lower lashes. This is a standard method for painting eyes - especially tiny ones... It's important to get the inner line - the part that frames the white of the eye - right. The outside will be smoothed out later. Additionally, the upper line will start thin on the inner corner of the eye and gradually widen as it gets to the outer corner. The lower edge starts in the middle of the lower eyelid, again thin, and slightly widens as it gets to the outer corner. I also used the eye color to temporarily paint the hair and frame the face. It helped me keep things in perspective.
As mentioned previously, Napoleonic Pinup Girls wear makeup. Really. The lips were painted using the Deep Red Triad. Brick Red for the line between the lips, Deep Red for the upper lip, and Blood Red for the lower lip. Blood Red was used as highlight in the center of the upper lip, while Phoenix Red was used to highlight the center of the lower lip. In this size/scale, that's really all I needed. At a viewing distance of 12 inches or so, any other tonal variations will be lost against the overall red of the lips. That's my story and I'm sticking to it...
I'm using my standard female Caucasian skin tone of 1:1 mixes of the Tanned Skin and Rosy Skin (base), Tanned Shadow and Rosy Shadow (first shade), and Tanned Highlight and Rosy Highlight (first light). My light source is from the high left front so the right side of her face and neck (all directions are as viewed) were shaded first, along with the sides of the nose, under the brow ridge, nose and lower lip. The rest of the face and neck were painted with the base mix. This is where I carefully frame the eyelashes and lips with the skin tones. I inevitably require touch-ups. The first lights were added across the forehead, upper cheekbones, above the upper lip, chin, lower left jaw line, nose down to the tip, and the center and left side of her neck (but leaving a small strip of the base between the two). These same tone were used on the hands and exposed midriff.
A second and third shade was made by adding a bit of Burgundy Wine (a dark reddish purple) to the first shade and blocking in the right side (again, as viewed) of her face and nose, the inner corners of her upper eye sockets, the far right side of her neck and the area of the neck that would have a shadow cast by the lower jaw. The third shade was used for the areas of even darker shadows - the far right side of her face and neck, a line under the right side of her jaw, the inner corner of the right eye. These colors were also used on her midriff and hands.
Pure White, added to the first light, was thinly applied to the center and left side of her forehead, upper cheekbones, nose, the left side of her upper lip, the upper left side of the chin, and the lower left jaw line. This was repeated on the midriff and hands. At this point there is a 'contrasty', blocked-in appearance to all of the skin areas. The transitions were softened by taking a thinned out second shade, starting in the first shade, and drawing back into the second shade. I am always drawing the darker color from the lighter color back into the darker using a small pointed brush and short strokes across the line between the two colors. Repeat with first shade, starting in the base, and draw it back into the first shade. Repeat through the lights.
That's the basic face and skin. More lights and make up to follow.
Next: hat and collar.
Cheers,
Glen
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I took the piece being a pre-production cast into account, Brian. Just didn't know if I was allowed to mention my getting them. But since the cat's out of the bag... ;)
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and the face is very well done with even features and actual eyes, cheek bones, and lips. This is very different from the three 30mm pieces I've painted where facial features seem to be little more than little bumps and lines. Or, maybe I've been painting the wrong figures...
@Glen, I recommend obtaining Mohr figures or Otto figures.
They at least have really faces ;)
Joerg
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Thanks Joerg! I'll look into them.
Glen
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Moving on! I've painted the hat and the inside of the collar.
I started by painting what appears to be a gold ribbon over the face of the tricolor cocarde. This was simply a line of Antique Gold on the right and New Gold on the left. The cocarde was painted from the inside out using Pure White, Blood Red, White, True Blue, White, Blood Red, and then a thin band of White - all based on my interpretation of what I'm seeing on Bartek's painting. The plume was painted overall Misty Gray. The shaded part of the plume had the Misty Gray mixed with a small amount of Cloudy Gray while the highlighted area was dotted with some Pure White. Bartek's art shows what may be a white and gray plume while some internet pics show a white and green plume. I opted to keep it simple, but I can always repaint it if someone has some better information.
The hat is basically a dark gray with black for the shading and a slightly lighter gray for the highlights. The hat is a slightly different shape/design from the Bartek's painting, but you can easily work around it.
I'm interpreting Bartek's art as having a dark red inside collar with white edging. I went with the Deep Red triad starting with the darker Red Brick color inside and working out to the lighter Bood Red on the outside. A touch of Phoenix Red was used for the outermost light. These are the same colors used on lips. Harmony, y'know...
If nothing else, between the eyes, lips, and cockarde, I think I've been able to up my game a bit. 3+ X reading glasses have helped.
Next: Coat, pack, and delicate wisps of Blonde hair.
Glen
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Now we're getting into the meat of the piece - the uniform and its details. I used the Brilliant Blue triad for the jacket and vest. I actually started with overall Ritterlich Blue (the darkest of the triad), added Black for the deepest shadows, then built up the lights with the Brilliant Blue, Cyan Blue, and White. Due to small scale, there wasn't much space to create bold transitions. When things got tight, I used a small pointed brush and dotted in the lights; almost like pointallism. The jacket and vest trim and buttons are Misty Gray. I didn't try to shade and highlight the trim after my first attempt. It seems that the transitions, visible up close and under magnification, pretty much disappeared under normal viewing at ten inches or so. Final lights later.
Bartek's art shows the epaulets to be a basic green and dark mauve. At least, that's how my eyes and color printer interpret it. I used a Pine Green, Muddy Olive, and Olive Green in various combinations to more-or-less match the green I was seeing. The 'mauve' trim was painted with a 1:1 mix of Dark Red and Stone Gray; lightening and darkening as needed.
The cross-belts are Leather White, with the Stone Gray and Weathered Stone (the lighter of the two) for shading and White for highlighting.
The Stone Gray triad was used for the blanket roll. I added some Black to the Shadowed Stone to deepen the space between the rolled edges. This was also used to shade some crinkles in the edges where the a tight fold might crease. The blanket roll strap are Leather White shaded and highlighted like the cross-belts.
The pack was painted using Basic Dirt Triad. The engraved pack differs a bit from the art, but it's easily figured out. There is a small area of the pack visible between the arm and torso. It's in deep shadow, so straight Muddy Soil sufficed. Everything else on the pack was the Dirt combo with a bit of Linen White added for the higher lights. The pack strap was painted Leather White.
The tin mug is Adamantium Black (a very handy metallic black), Shadowed Steel, and Honed Steel in various combos because that's what I have in my paint stock. Reaper makes two white metal(lic) triads; any one would suffice. The bottom of the mug, a sliver of the left edge, and a bit more of the right edge are the darkest areas of the mug. Everything else gets progressively light as it moves to slightly left of the center. Only small amounts of paint were used to avoid a pigment buildup.
I almost overlooked about the pendant - basic Black transitioning to Stormy Gray and Rainy Gray ending in and Antique Gold pendant with a New Gold highlight.
Next: Pants and footwear (exciting, I know...).
As always questions and comments are welcomed - no secrets here.
Glen
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Continuing with the uniform... The pants are an extension of the jacket and vest - same colors, same techniques, etc. See below.
On a side note, there are two buttons (raised dots) on the top of the pants. These are illustrated on Bartek's art, but are nearly the same color as the pants so they blend in. Not sure what color they're supposed to be. While mulling this over and letting my mind wander (dangerous), I started rethinking the button color on the vest. I interpreted this as white, but now I'm thinking maybe silver. Any thoughts?
The gaiters were painted Leather White with a touch of Stone Gray added for the shadows and moving to Pure White for the upper highlights. Easy. I almost missed the strap that goes under the rearmost boot. Watch for it.
The shoes are a base of Black and Stormy Gray mixed dark, but not completely black. This allows black itself to be used as a shadow color and still show a difference. More Stormy Gray was added to the base for the highlights.
Next: weapons and more highlights.
Glen
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Weapons now... The musket stock is Reaper's Shield Brown triad - overall Shield Brown with Woodstain Brown and Driftwood Brown for the shading and highlighting respectively. This is a very narrow strip of metal to paint, so I don't think it really needs more than that. The barrel was done in a similar manner using overall Shadowed Steel with a Honed Steel highlight. A thin strip of Adamantium Black was run along the bottom of the barrel right up against the wooden stock. The barrel bands are overall 1:1 Antique Gold and New Gold, with an Antique Gold shadow and a New Gold highlight. Easy. The musket sling is Leather White with a bit of Stone Gray added for the shadows and a bit of White added for the highlights. Straight Stone Gray was used for the gap between the upper and lower straps.
The sword and bayonet scabbards were painted like the shoes (see below). The chapes were painted like the musket barrel (see above). The sword hilt was painted like the musket barrel bands (see above again). I was trying to keep things simple. The sword grip is overall Oiled Leather with a Ruddy Leather shadow and an Oiled Leather lightened with a bit of Linen White highlight. In both cases, these were little more than a slightly-more-pigmented than-usual glaze. I just increased the layers for darker or lighter areas.
The last task was to bump the highlights on the uniform's jacket, vest, and pants. I used a glaze of Cyan Blue and White stroking from the edges of the first highlights to the center. Subsequent applications started a bit closer to the center and worked inward and lifting the brush in the center of the highlight. A quickie illustration is below.
Next: makeup and and final touchups.
Glen
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Finished now. I've added a bit of red blush (a very thin Blood Red) to her cheeks stroked form the outside of the blushed area inward. That way, the heavier concentrations of color are applied in the center and feather out at the edges. A slightly pink (an equally thin Fire Red that is a bit lighter - and slightly pinker - than Blood Red) eye shadow was added to the upper eyelids brushing from the outer lid in toward the nose.
The highlights were bumped up on the nose (more on the nose tip), chin, the upper portions of the breasts, the left hip area, the left side of her belly, and the hands and thumbs (again, all as viewed).
I forgot to mention the base... I run across many flats that have some degree of a ground depiction, whether plants, dirt, or rock. Many, it seems, are a basic pour plug that also functions as a stand. This piece falls in the category of the latter. If nothing else, it makes it easier to paint. Go with black, match it to your background, or paint it 'something'. I painted the upper flange of the base a dark green (any will do), followed by a medium green applied in a series of vertical, near vertical, and sometimes crossing strokes. These extended form the top of the flange down in the flared section at the bottom. This was followed by a lighter green applied in a similar manner, but stroking from somewhere in the lower half of the flange and going upward off the edge. What you see is neatly cropped grass. It took about three minutes. The lower section was painted Basic Dirt, irregularly stroking from the grass downward, then Muddy Soil applied the same way but started raggedly along the bottom of the Basic Dirt. This way, everything has bit natural(ish) look to it - there are no straight lines in nature. Or, so I'm told...
That's it!. Hope you all enjoyed it.
Glen
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Many thanks Glen ;)
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Glen
Great article bit of a definative of how to paint using Acrylics.I am now implimenting techniques to my Jupiter Hussar and 2 ladies figure.
Again really good article,bye the way you will love the next two figures.I think they are much more interesting.Brian will post info on these later today.
Congrats
Dave
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You are both welcome.
Dave, you are such a tease.
Standing by...
Glen
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The next ones ;)
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Is that second one based on Mick Jagger!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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They look good Brian! I know they're Austrian and British, but is there any more info on them? I'm painting them based on what I see in Bartek's illustrations, but I'd like to know what it is I'm looking at. Also, how do I get them when they're released? I still don't see them on the 2D site.
Nick, I hope not... :o
Glen
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Is that second one based on Mick Jagger!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
She was Jaggers Great, great, great, great grandmother who it is well know that she married and soldier from the 2nd Royal Dragoons (Scots Greys) around 1815, they both survived waterloo and live happily in Bournemouth until the mid 1840 :D