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First flats
8rad:
Thanks guys, I have been taking advantage of all your advice.
Got the lego, glass sheet and the plasticine. Fine detail plaster with a harder rating than dental plaster and to that added acrylic polymer hardener 1/3 ratio. Aiming at the best simulation of slate, without a cheap stable source of slate especially after brexit as mentioned i need a plentiful supply. Also want to try slate but once my engraving skills improved.
As i have been publishing paper minis up until now got a good feel for design (front and back). See attached, i print direct onto tracing paper. Think i have figured out a way to get the alignment spot on but yet to try.
Now i have the first hardened blank blocks and a easy design to try I just need to dial in the time to engrave.
Another avenue I hope to explore is once the master mould is made to then use a flat with silicone rubber to create a production mould.
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Gerald:
--- Quote from: 8rad on September 17, 2018, 02:49:59 PM ---Im pretty sure the soot trick used on slate wont work.
--- End quote ---
With Russ, all professional engravers have been doing this for a long time and then you have to transfer the original drawing to tracing paper and glue it to the stone with adhesive tape...
and buy slate if you want to have a good result. The few slate stones cost, at the address I gave you, so between about 7 and maybe 18 € depending on the size. I think that's not too expensive ... and Scotland is still in the EU next year, maybe it will be a bit more difficult and expensive.
BobLeighton:
I believe the way that the flat mould maker gets the reverse onto the plaster is to transfer the original drawing onto tracing paper.
They simply make a tracing of the two faces back and front transfer the front onto the appropriate block and the transfer the rear to the correct face on the other block.
You must be able to line up both tracings so that each is exactly centralised so that the two drawings lie in the correct position when onto top of each other to make your match.
I would suggest that you place a number of pencil lines on both blocks. one down the enact centre one across the middle, then one from each corner, that should establish the exact centre of each block, you have to check your measurements to make sure that each entre is in the same place. Centralise tour tracing, transpose the tracing onto the block, same for the reverse and again check that all lines up. Then cut you mould.
You will also need some soft plasticine which you can press into the pattern as you cut to constantly check that you are cutting correctly.
Good luck.
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The simplest way would to make a master front and back then pour your plaster over that, but again you will have to centre the pattern, I suppose that having made one master this way, you could simply higher the side of your mould box and pour the back straight onto the front. You will have to have some release agent between the two halves, otherwise they will never part?
Hope this helps.
Kind regards
Bob
8rad:
--- Quote from: Brian on September 16, 2018, 04:05:52 PM ---
Hi Brad, good to see you having a go and I have been watching how your getting on.
I too have tried, first with Plaster and the best I found was "Moulding Powder" from South Western Industrial Plasters or a good art shop, easy to use and good for engraving, plus it takes the tin well, the Quad was one of my first
Keep at it you can do it !! oh just one more thing heat the mould in the oven before pouring your tin.
--- End quote ---
Thanks guys been looking into mould powder & dental stone both look to blow potter plaster out the water for quality and hardness. Going to give böckchen's idea with the lego, mirror & dental stone a go, but need to figure out how to print the outline of the engraved mini on the reverse block. Im pretty sure the soot trick used on slate wont work. Brian your first quad mini looks really good, how did you do the reverse side.
Brian:
Hi Brad, good to see you having a go and I have been watching how your getting on.
I too have tried, first with Plaster and the best I found was "Moulding Powder" from South Western Industrial Plasters or a good art shop, easy to use and good for engraving, plus it takes the tin well, the Quad was one of my first
Keep at it you can do it !! oh just one more thing heat the mould in the oven before pouring your tin.
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